September is when exfoliation demand comes back. Clients are out of the sun more, they want to fix what summer did, and they’re finally willing to sit through a little downtime.
The question we get most often this time of year: enzyme or acid?
The short answer
Enzymes digest surface protein. Acids dissolve the bonds holding dead cells together. Enzymes are gentler and more forgiving. Acids go deeper and work faster but carry more risk on compromised or reactive skin.
Use an enzyme when the client is:
- Sensitive, rosacea-prone, or reactive
- New to professional exfoliation
- Currently on retinoids at home
- Coming off recent sun exposure
- Pregnant or nursing and avoiding stronger actives
- Booked for a same-day event with zero downtime tolerance
Use an acid when the client is:
- Dealing with texture, congestion, or stubborn dullness
- Already conditioned to regular exfoliation
- Working on pigmentation with a longer timeline
- Oilier and tolerating actives well
- Willing to commit to SPF compliance
Formulas worth keeping stocked
- Retexturizing Enzyme Mask / Pumpkin Enzyme with 5% Glycolic — The hybrid. Enzyme action with a low acid assist. This is the one that works for the widest range of clients.
- Professional Revitalizing Enzyme Mask — Papaya and pineapple. Your go-to for sensitive and first-time clients.
- Radiant Rose Gel Mask with 10% Glycolic — When you need real resurfacing power with a comfortable feel.
- Reboot and Reset Exfoliating Mask — Good mid-tier option for congestion and dullness together. Contains Pumpkin Enzyme, Papaya Enzyme and Glycolic acid.
- Vivid Cleansing Scrub with Glycolic — Prep step that lets your treatment mask work more evenly.
- AHA Smooth & Glow Mask – Purifies and gently exfoliates with Glycolic and Lactic Acid.
- Complete Care Serum – Skin Smoothing with Glycolic and Lactic Acids.
- Super Fruit Enzyme Cleanser – This skin smoothing enzyme cleanser is great for all skin types.
- AHA MIcro Beads Polish – This gentle jojoba scrub contains Glycolic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Malic Acid for a light resurfacing.
- Refining AHA Treatment Pads – These are treatment pads that contain Glycolic, Lactic, Citric, Malic, Tartaric acids for a light exfoliating treatment.
Always follow with:
- HA Forte Intense Hydrating Mask or Nourishing Glow Mask to rebuild after resurfacing
- Daily Skin Salve for anyone with post-treatment dryness or flaking
Menu idea: Offer one exfoliation service with two intensity tiers instead of two separate services. Same room time, same product cost, and you can move a client up a tier as they build tolerance. Easier to book, easier to explain.
facial protocols library has step-by-step guides written by working estheticians.