Most skin has some level of pigmentation. We are bombarded with a host of factors that will stimulate pigmentation over the years like medications, sun exposure, hormonal changes, acne, or inflammation. Pigmentation can impact a number of people regardless of age or race.
Pigmentation happens as a result of melanin which is produced by cells called Melanocytes through a process called melanogensis. We have thousands of melanocytes per millimeter of skin. Hyperpigmentation can happen in any skin types such as, oily, dry, dark and light. Excessive stimulation or inflammation in the skin can result in excessive melanin production.
Understanding what triggers the skin to pigment and what can help reverse the pigmentation can assist you as an esthetician to benefit your client. Every client is different and will respond differently with different ingredients. Finding the right combination of ingredients will help achieve the results they are longing for.
Understanding that some causes are so strong that even doing the best treatments and using the best ingredients will take time and managing expectations is crucial. Hormonal changes can cause melasma and that type of pigmentation is difficult to manage. The client must understand staying on a treatment plan is really important to keep their skin brighter. In some cases you can get others the results desired and in some it is more of managing the pigmentation and having a little patience. In some instances, pigmentation doesn’t happen overnight and it takes time to develop. Working with your client to have a complete home skincare regimen will help them keep their skin looking great. For Darker or more sensitive skin types treatments can be too aggressive and it will take more time to brighten the skin.
Some causes of pigmentation
Medications
Chemicals
Hormonal Changes
Sun Damage
Large melanocyte cells
Pregnancy
Acne
Inflammation
How to improve hyperpigmentation
There are many ingredients and treatments that can help brighten the skin and suppress the melanin. Melanin suppressants like Kojic, Licorice root and AHAs are more on the gentle side. Combining with treatments like enzyme, peels and microdermabrasion can help reduce existing hyperpigmentation. There does need to be caution to not over stimulate the melanocytes. Using a good home care regimen can help your client get significant change. Some pigmentation types can do a maintenance that is not as frequent like once a day or every other day. Others with more severe pigmentation must use brightening products more frequently. In some cases this can cause the skin to slough or be a little more red. You can use balms or salves to help soothe like our Daily Skin Salve. This can be used on the face and body to help soothe after post care or in a daily skin regimen.
Brightening Ingredients
Kojic Acid – Kojic acid is an effective inhibitor of melanin synthesis derived from Japanese mushrooms.
Licorice Root Extract – A tyrosinase and photo pigmentation inhibitor with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Niacinamide helps skin tone appear even, glowing, and bright in addition to boosting the natural effects of retinol.
Products recommended for dark or brown spots, melasma and uneven tone
Skincare with Brighteners
Bright Radiance – Kojic Acid & Niacin
Eye Renewal Serum – Eye Bright Extract, Licorice Root & Vitamin C
Natural Replenishing Serum – Niacinamide Serum 5% concentration
Emerge Night Serum – Retinol, Bakuchiol & Niacinamide
Other products to combine for best results for Dark spots, pigmentation and un even tone.
Vivid Cleansing Scrub – Contains Glycolic Acid
AHA Toner – Contains AHAs
Total C Complex – Vitamin C 10%
Retexturizing Enzyme Mask – Pumpkin Enzyme & Glycolic Acid
Brilliance Exfoliation Mask – Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Pumpkin
Retinol PM – Retinol
Brilliance Brightening Facial Treatment Protocol – All skin types
This treatment is packed with three key exfoliating ingredients including; Pumpkin Enzyme, Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid. These combine ingredients are going to provide a deep exfoliation. If you have sensitive skin or new to enzymes and acids here are two great masks to start off with; Revitalizing Enzyme Mask (Papaya & Pineapple) and the Retexturizing Enzyme Mask (Pumpkin). The Brilliance Exfoliating Mask are those looking for a stronger treatment to assist with their skin concerns.
- Cleanse with Vivid Cleansing Scrub
- Tone skin with Gentle Clarifying Toner
- Apply thin layer of Brilliance Exfoliating Mask Leave on for 5-10 minutes depending on skin type and rinse
- Apply Crisp Cranberry & Cucumber Mask (can apply hot towel compress) for Normal to Oily skin types, Nourishing Glow Mask for Normal to dry skin types. Leave on for 5-10 minutes
- Apply Eye Renewal Serum for all skin types.
- Apply Natural Replenishing Serum for all skin types
- Apply Phyto Nourish Face Oil for normal to dry skin types.
- Apply Bright Radiance Moisturizer for normal to dry skin types.
Recommended Home Care for Brightening
AM Skincare Brightening Regimen
- Vivid Cleansing Scrub
- Gentle Clarifying Toner
- Eye Renewal Serum
- Total C Complex
- For Normal to Oily skin use Natural Replenishing Serum. For Normal to Dry use Bright Radiance Moisturizer.
- SPF
PM Skincare Brightening Regimen
- Vivid Cleansing Scrub
- Gentle Clarifying Toner
- Eye Renewal Serum
- Emerge Night Serum
- For Normal to Oily skin use Natural Replenishing Serum. For Normal to Dry use Bright Radiance Moisturizer.