Category Archives: Anti Aging

This is the perfect season for Peels

peel results
picpeel1picmineralmakeuppeelday2peelday3Do you know what really goes hand and had with fall? Peels!!!!
leaves are changing colors; trees are shedding…time to renewal! Time for a peel!
Fall is a great time to start some peel series on yourself and on your clients. This is the season for
renewal. A peel will diminish fine lines, even out skin tone; removing sun damage, and giving a nice
glow to the skin.
There are 3 different types of peels: superficial, medium and deep.
Here at Aesthetic Back Bar website you will find superficial peels, perfect for peel series and no downtime. To obtain best results, superficial peels need to be done in series. They are great for the
client that doesn’t want to be flaking, red or swollen.
Medium peels are deeper then superficial peels and they provoke a second degree burn on the skin. The
main peeling agent for medium peels is TCA. These peels may require downtime and will flake, skin will
be red and swollen may occurs.
Deep peel penetrates several layers of the skin. It is the most painful peel and only can be done on the
face. In many cases, deep peel can be done only once. Phenol is used as the peeling agent and cannot be
use in dark skins because phenol tends to bleaches the skin. These peels do require downtime, sedatives
and are the most painful peels.
I decided to do a TCA peel, after 2 years of not taking good “deep care” of my skin. Yes, for the past 2
years I have been devoting my life to raise my little girl that now just became a toddler. Some days were
so busy that I barely had time to wash my face….I did skip my lotions, serums, vitamins….the only thing I
made sure I had on was my SPF.
Now is exactly one week after my TCA peel. My face was red, I had some mild swelling and I had lots of
flakes.
I took pictures so you could see the progress. After the peel, I used only Aesthetic Back Bar Products:
Facial Cleansing Gel, Niacinamide Serum, Rejuvenative Serum and Light Moisture Cream. I also applied
the fair loose mineral powder, which in my opinion is the most amazing mineral makeup on the market
because has few ingredients ,has no filler, talc, being perfect and safe after peels and lasers.
I intercalate the light Moisture cream with the Niacinamide Serum and the Rejuvenative Serum. I have
an oily/problematic skin so I need to be careful with everything that hydrates my skin. Light Moisture
cream is my daily cream because keeps my skin hydrate and doesn’t clog my pores. The Niacinamide is
excellent after a peel because the Vitamin B3 helps with the collagen stimulation while hydrates and
inhibits hyperpigmentation process and the Rejuvenative Serum has DMAE and MSM, that helps the
skin heal and get firm, producing collagen and elastin. My protocol after my peel was:
Morning:
1 – I washed my face with the Facial Cleansing Gel, which is excellent for all skin types, also great for
professional use. It is paraben free. This product is thin and one thing that I love about this facial
cleanser is that a little goes a long way.
2 – Sat, Mo, Wed and Fri – after the facial cleansing gel, I applied the Niacinamide Serum, SPF and
Applied Fair loose Mineral Makeup.
3- Sun, Tues, Sat – after the facial cleansing gel, I applied the rejuvenative serum, SPF and Fair Loose
Mineral Makeup
4- Nights: I washed my face with Facial cleansing gel and applied light moisture cream.
On a side note, all the products that I did review are my honest opinion and I truly believe in them 
those  pictures show my progress. As I wrote above, I had my TCA peel done 1 week ago.
As you can see my skin is glowing and I still have a bit of flake. The optimal results of a medium peel will
show from 7 to 15 days after the peel.
Now that I started my skin “deep care” I will follow with pumpkin peels. I will be using Professional
Pumpkin enzyme mask II (12% Glycolic) twice a week for the next couple weeks and will be posting more
of my results. See you then!

TIPS FOR SPRING CLEANING YOUR BACK BAR

TIPS FOR SPRING CLEANING YOUR BACK BAR

Spring is around the corner and in its wings come renewal and freshness. What better time to do a general assessment of the skin care products you carry in your back bar?

Choosing between keeping and tossing: Watch the expiration dates in your products! It sounds pretty obvious, but think back for a moment: do you still carry that product you purchased at that wellness expo, two years ago? How about that free sample you got more than a year ago? Time flies and when you least realize, half of your back bar is unfit for use.  Take time to do a thorough search in your cabinet; whatever you haven’t used in 6 months, toss it! Change in color, scent, or texture? Toss it! You’d be surprised at how many products you will find in your cabinet that you either don’t use anymore or that are no longer fresh.

Emily Smith, of ‘Beauty High,’ a well-known website on beauty and skin care says:  “One way to rid yourself of stressing over your products’ expiration dates is to mark in Sharpie when you bought each product. Sure, it sounds like a pain, but knowing when you put your products to rest will save you the hassle of contaminating your counter space as well as yourself.” Or, worse yet, contaminating your clients, for that matter. It’s important to remember that bacterias can grow overtime, and expired products might cause adverse reactions on the skin.

Time to go natural: Consider switching to more natural brands that carry products that do the heavy work. Do away with sulfate-loaded cleansers, chemical exfoliators and chemical anti-aging agents, and welcome natural, coconut- based cleansers, AHA or enzyme exfoliating masks, and more natural anti-aging products with ingredients, such as MSM and DMAE, and vitamins B and C.

Be smart with your inventory: depending on the size of your practice, it may be better for you to buy smaller containers and invest in a variety of products for more targeted treatments. You may want to keep larger quantities only for the products you use most often, like cleansers and certain masks. That’s when it comes in handy to have a provider that does not require a minimum order. Stocking up on $3000 worth of unnecessary products just to meet the required minimum may be a bad business move if you end up not using these products as much as you had predicted.

Think about revamping your skin care line altogether. It might be beneficial to consider a new perspective. It could be that the line you currently use is too limited or does not offer fresh ingredients; or you’ve just grown tired of using the same products day in and out. After all, springtime is about a new approach to life and what better time to do away with the old and welcome the new?

* Best-selling products for springtime facials:

Citrus essential oils, green tea cream cleanser, vitamin C serum, papaya pineapple enzyme mask, renewal cream, niacinamide serum, revitalizing and firming mud mask, rose cooling regenerative mask.

What is your spring cleaning ritual? Please share your tips with us, we’d love to hear them!

 Treatments:

Renewal Mask – All Skin Types
  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids of Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Tartaric Acid and Lactose
  • Minimize photo damaged skin
  • Light exfoliation
  • Moisturizing effect on the skin
  • Soften fine lines and wrinkles
  • Powder Mask

Ingredients: Kaolin Clay, Bentonite Clay, Iron Oxide, Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Tartaric Acid, Lactose

 
Anti-Aging Mask – All Skin Types Certified Vegan/12% Glycolic/pH: 3.5
  • Nourishes Skin
  • Improves elasticity
  • Increases Moisture
  • Stimulates Skin Regeneration
  • Can be used with Steam or hot towel compress
  • Powder Mask
Ingredients: Kaolin Clay, Bentonite Clay, Curcuma longa (Turmeric) Root Powder, Beta vulgaris (Beet) Powder, d-Calcium Pantothenate (Pro Vitamin B5), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester)
Papaya & Pineapple Enzyme Mask – All Skin Types
95% Organic/Certified Vegan
  • Mild Exfoliation
  • Brighten and Polishes the Skin
  • Vitamin A, C, E & Carotenoids.
  • Reduces inflammation
  • Can be used with Steam or hot towel compress

Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe) Juice, Aqua (Water), Kosher Vegetable Glycerin, Carica papaya (Papaya) Extract, Carica papaya (Green Papaya) Extract, Ananas comosus (Pineapple) Extract, Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel), Carbomer, Triethanolamine (TEA), Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid

Professional Enzymes– a versatile treatment to carry in your back bar

Professional enzyme peelsCountless customers today seek a skincare professional because they want a solution to their skin issues with instant results, but many are not ready for harsh chemical treatments. If you constantly encounter clients whose skin is dry, dull or acne prone and you want a natural solution to tackling these challenges, why not incorporate a professional enzyme peel or mask to your skin care protocol?

Enzymes are sometimes used as a less aggressive alternative to chemical peels (such as alpha hydroxy and beta acids), so they can be the best ally in results oriented, no down time treatments.  Enzyme exfoliation relies on the biological action rather than physical abrasion. I like to compare enzymes to pac man.  They just gobble up the dead skin on the face leaving the skin with a healthy glow.  Some fruit and vegetable enzymes also have naturally occurring antioxidants, nourishing benefits that can include vitamins and minerals (Vitamin A, C, E and carotenoids) and, in some cases low-level AHAs.

These enzymes are proteins that dissolve and breakdown dead skin cells and help to rebuild the skin at the same time. This dual action of exfoliating dead skin cells (which are the greatest cause of clogged pores, acne and whiteheads), and restoring dry, dull skin make these products very versatile. Having such a multipurpose product in your clinic’s back bar will ensure its constant use and result in an increase in client satisfaction, who will leave your facility with brilliant, healthy skin, and a smile on their face! Add these powerful natural products to your line and see your clients get hooked!

Below you will find a brief description of the most popular types of enzymes used in home care (private label) and professional treatments:

Papain (aka Papaya)
Papaya can be used for breakouts, dry skin, cellulite and premature aging.
The Papain enzyme is derived from the leaves, seeds, skin and fruit of the Papaya. Papaya contains many vitamins and minerals that are said to provide many health benefits.  Papain has become one of the most popular and important enzymes to help achieve beautiful skin. The powerful enzyme found in papaya is called peptin.
Peptin is a digestive enzyme and when applied topically it helps to soften the skin giving it a radiant healthy glow.  Other nourishing benefits of peptin include Vitamin A, C, E and carotenoids.  These antioxidants also reduce inflammation of the skin. Peptin helps to exfoliate dead skin cells that cause clogged pores.  Papain has also been shown to be helpful in evening the skin tone and lightening brown spots due to sun exposure.  Studies done in the West Indian Medical Journal confirm the healing abilities of papaya and its capability to rejuvenate and repair the skin.

Bromelain (aka Pineapple)
Bromelain enzyme is derived from pineapple.  A Venezuelan chemist isolated the enzyme from the fruit in 1891 and was introduced as a therapeutic supplement in 1957. The Bromelain enzyme is taken from the stem and juice of the pineapple.  When used topically, Bromelain speeds healing and dissolves cross-linked collagen cells, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.  Bromelain has also been shown to reduce inflammation.

Pumpkin
Pumpkin pulp is rich in enzymes, beta-carotene, amino acids and antioxidants. Pumpkin is a rich source of antioxidants & enzymes that act like alpha-hydroxy acids. Pumpkin contains more than 100 beneficial nutrients, which are used to help reverse the signs of aging. It detoxifies congested skin and banishes rough skin textures for an even, healthy appearance. Pumpkin has the highest percentage of vitamin A and beta carotene of all vegetable enzymes.

As a skin care professional, you must be prepared by having an array of products in your back bar that contain these precious natural enzymes.  That way, you will be able to customize and target specific problems in different skin types and conditions, and leave your clients with a healthy, polished, glowing skin. Aesthetic Back Bar’s professional enzyme peel products available: Papaya Pineapple Enzyme (also available for private label), Pumpkin I Enzyme, and Pumpkin II Enzyme.

Complete Facial Enzyme Kits Available:

Papaya & Pineapple Enzyme Facial Kit $75

Pumpkin Facial Enzyme Kit $72

If you would like more detailed information regarding private label, please e-mail us at info@aestheticbackbar.com

FDA new requirements for sunscreen labels

new sunscreen labeling requirementsBy next summer you will see many changes to sunscreen labels.  These changes are going to be required by the FDA and will provide us with more information about the sunscreen products we purchase. The FDA is taking some steps to help protect consumers from excessive sun exposure. This is great news for consumers!  This will make it easier to choose the right sun protection.

Sun Protection Tests
Some of the changes you will see on sunscreen labels will tell you if the sunscreen will help prevent skin cancer and sunburn or only help prevent sunburn. For the company to be able to label that it can prevent skin cancer and sunburn it will have to pass two tests.  The first one is a broad-spectrum test. This will tell us if the sunscreen can protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays.

The second one is a sun protection factor (spf) test to show us how well the sunscreen protects the skin from sunburn. Sunscreens that are not broad spectrum or that are broad spectrum with SPF values 2 to 14 will have a warning label that reads: “Skin Cancer/Skin Aging Alert: Spending time in the sun increases your risk of skin cancer and early skin aging. This product has been shown to only help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging.”

Also, sunscreens cannot claim they protect immediately on application.  This means the sunscreen cannot say it provides instant protection or protection for more than two hours without reapplication unless they get approval from the FDA.

Water-Resistance
The FDA will be prohibiting companies from claiming the sunscreen is “waterproof” or “sweat proof”.  “Water resistant” is the new term you will start to see more.  For “water resisitant” to be on the label the product must pass another test to show how long the sunscreen keeps its SPF when the person goes into the water or sweats. The label will tell you if the protection lasts 40 or 80 minutes. If the sunscreen is not water resistant the label will have a warning.

Makeup & Moisturizers with SPF
The FDA will also be testing makeup and moisturizers that contain sunscreen.  These types of products will have to pass the FDA tests also.

The American Academy of Dermatology provided scientific information to the FDA to help develop these new rules.  Dermatologists are hoping these new rules will help reduce the risk for skin cancer. The labeling rules go in effect in June 2012. With rules like this consumers will be able to make better decisions in purchasing the right sun protection.

References:
American Academy of Dermatology – www.aad.org
US Food & Drug Administration – www.fda.gov

Exfoliating Facial Cleanser for Sensitive Skin

wholesale facial productsExfoliating the skin is a very important part of our skincare regimen.  Many times sensitive skin lack exfoliation needed because not many formulas can do the job just right.  Exfoliating Facial Cleanser is a 82% organic formula free of fragrance and parabens.  This gentle cleanser uses jojoba micro beads to gently exfoliate the skin leaving it bright and youthful.

How safe are your Anti-Aging Creams?

We are always concerned about safety but many times we do not seem to concerned about what is put on the skin.  We are usually very obsessive about reading ingredient labels and buying products that are natural or organic.   What about topical creams and serums we apply that penetrate the skin’s barrier? Those go overlooked most of the time.  A recent study at Mount Sinai School of Medicine found that exposure to three common chemical types: phenols, phthalates and phytoestrogens may in young girls disrupt the timing of pubertal development and put girls at risk for complications later in life. The study was conducted on 1151 girls from 6 – 8 years of age.

Researchers out of Oklahoma City said, “Daily application of topical ‘youth enhancing’ moisturizers containing estrogen or estrognically active compounds could theoretically be a risk to women with breast cancer, particularly those with estrogen receptor—positive breast cancers who take aromatase inhibitors”.

16 Anti-aging products were selected based on claims of “rejuvenating” or “youth enhancing” to be tested for estradiol, estriol and estrone. None of the products mentioned estrogen or estrogenic molecules in the ingredient listing.  Unopened samples were sent to the research center in Oklahoma City. After testing five samples contained  estriol, one contained estriol and one contained estrone.

Many believe that cosmetic laws are outdated for the type of chemicals and products we have on the market today.  Consumers rely on manufacturers to provide accurate ingredients on their

Theoretically daily application of “anti-aging” moisturizers that contain estrogen or estrognically active compounds could possibly be a risk to women with breast cancer.  Research is still being conducted and there are experts on both sides that debate this topic.

My opinion is to stay informed, do your own research and question manufacturers. Try to select products that have more natural or organic ingredients.

References
Environmental Health Perspectives   http://ehp03.niehs.nih.gov
Journal of Clinical Oncology   http://jco.ascopubs.org
Inside Cosmeceuticals   http://www.insidecosmeceuticals.com

Tips to find the right natural skincare product

natural skin care productsHow to find the right natural skincare product?
The beauty market can already be confusing enough and now with trying to find natural products can be over whelming.  Did you know that at the moment there is not a real definition for “Natural” in the personal care industry?  Many products can call themselves “natural” but are they really?

Anyone could claim their product was ‘natural,’ even if it is 100 percent synthetic or petroleum-based.  The term “natural” can be abused easily and that is why there are several organizations working to get standards and guidelines for product labeling.  The Natural Products Association (NPA) is a new organization that is working hard to create a standard for natural products to help consumers see what is natural in the personal care market.  Some say natural can be defined as purposeful, renewable source found in nature (flora, fauna, mineral) and are minimally processed and don’t use synthetic or harsh chemicals because they dilute purity.  The Natural product market is still in its early stages and is going to grow tremendously in the next couple of years.

What is pushing people to try natural products?
The natural beauty product interest is growing stronger every day and research confirms consumers are very confused about what makes up a “natural” product.  More than three of every four (78 percent) American women think natural personal care is currently regulated or don’t know if it is, while nearly all (97 percent) think it should be.  Two of every three American women think a personal care product labeled “natural” should contain at least 95 percent natural ingredients.

Many people are trying natural products because they want to live a simpler and more holistic lifestyle while others are just curious about them.   With the rise of illness, pollution and global warming people are looking for products that are “greener”.  Consumers believe that personal care products based on raw natural ingredients are healthier, safer to use and better for our environment.  Many manufacturing companies of beauty products are making the effort to produce products that have recyclable packaging and run their business in a more efficient way for example by using less water and powering by wind energy.

What to look for in a “natural” product?
Some popular natural ingredients worth looking for are eucalyptus, green tea, lavender, rose hip oil, aloe juice, royal jelly, coconut, ginger root extract, shea butter and olive oil.

Here are a couple of tips you can go by to find the right natural product for you:

  • Read Labels – Products with ingredients like parabens and other non-natural ingredients are not considered natural. Many people like to find the word Organic in the ingredient listing.  Getting the organic seal is harder to find but more reliable then just using the word natural.
  • Do your own research – Not everyone agrees with what natural is so we encourage you decide for yourself.
  • Ask Questions – These are 4 basic questions you can ask.

Ingredient Update: Green Tea

People have been enjoying the taste and health benefits of Green Tea for many years.  Drinking Green tea regularly significantly lowers heart disease and decreases developing certain types of cancer.   I am sure you have heard the buzz about Green Tea and highlights of its topical antioxidant properties in the media.  Many skincare companies have started adding this antioxidant to its formulations. Today it is considered one of the most effective plant based antioxidants in skin care, containing anti-inflammatory benefits to help reduce redness and even out skin complexion.

Green Tea in higher concentrations helps minimize free radical damage in the skin. Green Tea is said to be the #1 source for Polyphenols.  Green tea uniquely has high levels of this antioxidant and is said to be the “Super Antioxidant” containing 200 times more potent antioxidants than Vitamin E. Science shows that the polyphenols in green tea helps reverse damage in the skin.

What are Polyphenols?
Polyphenols are compounds that are found in nature.  Polyphenols consist of a large group of natural plant products found in fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds, flowers and bark. Polyphenols are known to be a powerful natural antioxidant to help improve health. Plant polyphenols have been getting more attention lately because they can inhibit, reverse, or slow down the process of UV damage in the skin. These antioxidants help to eliminate free radicals which are unstable molecules that can cause aging or disease in the body.

Green Tea and the Sun
When highly concentrated formulas are applied to the skin, green tea polyphenols get into the skin and help reverse sun induced damage. It is suggested that polyphenols can supplement sunscreen protection and may be helpful for skin diseases associated with UV induced inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage.

The harmful effects associated with UV exposure are mostly result of errors in DNA repair, which can lead to mutations.  Investigations have reported that a sunscreen containing different concentration of green tea extracts provided significant protection against photo aging. Studies have shown that topical application of green tea polyphenols prior to UV exposure can also result in protection from solar-simulated UV.

Routine topical treatment of Green Tea formulas may provide protection against harmful effects of solar UV radiation. Using formulas with Green Tea antioxidants with sunscreens or skincare lotions can provide an effective strategy to make UV radiation less severe. When using a sunscreen try to use a formula that is broad spectrum with at least an SPF of 30.

Products that contain Organic Green Tea:

References
Nichols JA, Katiyar SK. Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Arch Dermatol Res. 2010 Mar;302(2):71-83.

Ingredient Update: DMAE

DMAE has been made to be a very popular anti-aging ingredient ever since Dr. Nicholas Perricone, M.D.’s top-selling book, The Wrinkle Cure was published.   In this book Dr. Perricone promotes supplementing with DMAE as a treatment for reducing wrinkles. DMAE is an amazing nutrient that extends the life of cells and inhibits cross linking which gives the skin tone and firmness. DMAE gives a immediate firmness that can wear off at the end of the day.  When DMAE is applies to the skin it stimulates acetylcholine release which would trigger a response in the muscles of the face. This activity creates a firmer facial tone and less sagging skin.

Products that contain DMAE:

Ingredient Update: MSM – Methylsulfonylmethane

Methylsulfonylmethane or MSM for short is a naturally occurring nutrient found in the body, plants, meats, dairy products, fruits, and vegetables.  MSM is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, which supplies sulfur to the body and allows it to heal itself and contribute to healthy skin.. Unfortunately amounts of MSM necessary for normal human health are not typically found in today’s average diet. This is why we have so many skin care companies and supplements containing MSM.

MSM  has been used to eliminate chronic pain, muscle pain, repairing cut, scraped, burned and damaged skin. There have been reports of MSM eliminating wrinkles, brown spots, skin tumors, and spider veins. MSM has been used for healing scar tissue and burned skin.  When used topically in the form of a cream or lotion, sufur is helpful with skin disorders such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, dandruff, scabies, diaper rash and certain fungal infections.

The skin is a vital organ that is held together by collagen. Collagen is very important for the cellular tissue.  MSM helps to replenish and repair damaged skin and increases wound healing. When MSM supplies are depleted the skin becomes dry, cracked, damaged and wrinkled. MSM feeds the formation of collagen and elastin in the skin while preventing and reducing cross-linking between cells.  Cross-linking between cells is the primary cause of wrinkles and scar tissue.

Which products contain MSM – Methylsulfonylmethane